7.3 in a Fseries. Man o man, those are really shoved in there! You got to be like a midget or somethin to work on em. Alls I know is that have fun being all crampt and all.
GOOD LUCK!How to change a clutch in 7.3 ford?
technical manual%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;ford 7.3%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;clutchHow to change a clutch in 7.3 ford?
relly easy, take it to the dealer, dish out 1500 dollars and you're done!
Monday, December 12, 2011
Just wondering if anyone knows how complex it is to change a clutch on an87 ranger 2 wheel drive?
when driving after shifting rpms bounce a little then it grabsJust wondering if anyone knows how complex it is to change a clutch on an87 ranger 2 wheel drive?
It's easy, any redneck can do it in the trailer park driveway.Just wondering if anyone knows how complex it is to change a clutch on an87 ranger 2 wheel drive?
IT IS A PRETTY GOOD JOB YOU NEED TO DROP THE TRANSMISSION AND THEN REMOVE THE BELL HOUSING AND THEN YOU CAN GET TO THE CLUTCH BE SURE TO CHANGE THE THROWOUT BEARING AND THE PILOT BUSHING WHILE YOU HAVE IT OUT
That檚 a fairly straight forward job. The things to watch out for are, the flywheel, get it checked and find someone with a cup grinder to resurface it. Don檛 let anyone cut it flat.
Check the pilot bearing in the crank, and change it if in doubt. Make sure you have an alignment tool for the disc, make sure the U joints are good, and you should be fine. Oh, and I檓 not sure about an ?7, but some of the Mazda transmission Fords have some rubber seals on top of the transmission in the back that should be sealed, check with a Ford tech.
Good luck.
its a pretty good little job to do,,you need a transmission jack,,or a good floor jack,,and a good place to work on it,,and you will need to take the flywheel and get it re-surfaced before you put a new clutch in it,,otherwise it may burn the new one out also,,i own a repair shop in Tennessee,,and i wont do one without turning the flywheel on it,,otherwise your just wasting your time on it,,and money,,i have to do them ,,and guarantee them,,so i cant afford to be wrong,,when it comes to a job like that,,,you can do it,,but you need the proper tools for the job,,otherwise you would be better off taking it somewhere and having it done,,this way you will get a guarantee with it,,and if it tears back up,,you just take it back to them,,sometimes its better to do it this way,,good luck with it,,i hope this helps.
well not one of those mechanics bothered to mention how freaking hard it is to get the line off of the hydraulic clutch, good luck with this one as i have only had the oppertunity to do one vehicle like this and man what a pain. for some reason ford liked the idea with that set up. but also remember to torque the flywheel down and check the rear main seal on the engine and anything else thats going to be right there when you have it apart
It's easy, any redneck can do it in the trailer park driveway.Just wondering if anyone knows how complex it is to change a clutch on an87 ranger 2 wheel drive?
IT IS A PRETTY GOOD JOB YOU NEED TO DROP THE TRANSMISSION AND THEN REMOVE THE BELL HOUSING AND THEN YOU CAN GET TO THE CLUTCH BE SURE TO CHANGE THE THROWOUT BEARING AND THE PILOT BUSHING WHILE YOU HAVE IT OUT
That檚 a fairly straight forward job. The things to watch out for are, the flywheel, get it checked and find someone with a cup grinder to resurface it. Don檛 let anyone cut it flat.
Check the pilot bearing in the crank, and change it if in doubt. Make sure you have an alignment tool for the disc, make sure the U joints are good, and you should be fine. Oh, and I檓 not sure about an ?7, but some of the Mazda transmission Fords have some rubber seals on top of the transmission in the back that should be sealed, check with a Ford tech.
Good luck.
its a pretty good little job to do,,you need a transmission jack,,or a good floor jack,,and a good place to work on it,,and you will need to take the flywheel and get it re-surfaced before you put a new clutch in it,,otherwise it may burn the new one out also,,i own a repair shop in Tennessee,,and i wont do one without turning the flywheel on it,,otherwise your just wasting your time on it,,and money,,i have to do them ,,and guarantee them,,so i cant afford to be wrong,,when it comes to a job like that,,,you can do it,,but you need the proper tools for the job,,otherwise you would be better off taking it somewhere and having it done,,this way you will get a guarantee with it,,and if it tears back up,,you just take it back to them,,sometimes its better to do it this way,,good luck with it,,i hope this helps.
well not one of those mechanics bothered to mention how freaking hard it is to get the line off of the hydraulic clutch, good luck with this one as i have only had the oppertunity to do one vehicle like this and man what a pain. for some reason ford liked the idea with that set up. but also remember to torque the flywheel down and check the rear main seal on the engine and anything else thats going to be right there when you have it apart
I need step by step instructions on how to change a clutch on a 1986 Mazda 626 sadan?
MY CLUTCH WENT OUT SO I AM REPLACING IT. TO SAVE SOME $ IM DOING THE LABOR MYSELF. I HAVE DONE MECANIC WORK BEFORE SO I DO KNOW MY WAY AROUND AN ENGINE. AS FAR AS A CLUTCH GOES ALL I NEED IS SOMEONE TO WALK ME THROUGH IT. SO IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT REPLACING A CLUTCH PLEASE SEND ME INSTRUCTIONS ON IT STEP BY STEPI need step by step instructions on how to change a clutch on a 1986 Mazda 626 sadan?
Much too complicated to itemize in these forums and almost impossible without the proper tools and a lift.
See www.alldatadiy.com for full instructions though.I need step by step instructions on how to change a clutch on a 1986 Mazda 626 sadan?
OMG!
If you need instructions - it isn't for you. FWD clutch jobs are a nightmare. Last year I swapped the clutch in an Integra. I had to disconnect just about every bolt there exist on the engine.
On top of that you have to hoist the engine and disconnect the steering knuckle and the CV joint. It wasn't worth the money saved.
===
If you still want to do it, it is best to get a repair manual (I used Chilton but Hayes and others are about the same).
Good Luck...
I have to agree with the others, although I like to see people try to do their own work. In the case of an '86 Mazda 626, which I owned in the past and loved, I think it's not worth it.
If you are attached to the car, invest in a good manual for 20 bucks on Ebay.
Good luck.
Unfortunately, you may spend more money doing it yourself that you would getting it done by a professional. It is not an easy job and requires knowledge and experience. Check around and get some expert prices before you try it.
You should purchase a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your specific make and model. The steps involved are a little too numerous for this type of forum. A manual can be had for under $20 - with the added benefit that it'll have photos of the steps involved. You can usually pick one up at a local auto parts store.hide myspace music player Parameter.Add()
Much too complicated to itemize in these forums and almost impossible without the proper tools and a lift.
See www.alldatadiy.com for full instructions though.I need step by step instructions on how to change a clutch on a 1986 Mazda 626 sadan?
OMG!
If you need instructions - it isn't for you. FWD clutch jobs are a nightmare. Last year I swapped the clutch in an Integra. I had to disconnect just about every bolt there exist on the engine.
On top of that you have to hoist the engine and disconnect the steering knuckle and the CV joint. It wasn't worth the money saved.
===
If you still want to do it, it is best to get a repair manual (I used Chilton but Hayes and others are about the same).
Good Luck...
I have to agree with the others, although I like to see people try to do their own work. In the case of an '86 Mazda 626, which I owned in the past and loved, I think it's not worth it.
If you are attached to the car, invest in a good manual for 20 bucks on Ebay.
Good luck.
Unfortunately, you may spend more money doing it yourself that you would getting it done by a professional. It is not an easy job and requires knowledge and experience. Check around and get some expert prices before you try it.
You should purchase a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your specific make and model. The steps involved are a little too numerous for this type of forum. A manual can be had for under $20 - with the added benefit that it'll have photos of the steps involved. You can usually pick one up at a local auto parts store.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
How do you change the clutch on a 1990 Toyota Camry?
I just need basic instruction on how to get to the cluth what should be removed in order to move the transmission enough to get to the clutch, a website with instruction would be helpful or someone who knows what they are talking about thanksHow do you change the clutch on a 1990 Toyota Camry?
Here's the procedure to remove the transmission.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090
That's most of the job. Then to replace the Clutch;
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090
And don't forget to buy yourself a clutch pilot tool.
http://www.autozone.com/partTypeId,00435
P.S. Click on the pictures to enlarge.How do you change the clutch on a 1990 Toyota Camry?
Try getting the Haynes or other manuals at an automotive hardware store. They're a great help when maintaining your own car.
Drop the tranny.
Get a new throw out berring.
Anew pressure plate.
you have to dismantle the tranny,be carefull when inserting the new throw out berring,or you'll destroy the clutches,cause it has to go in correct,if it's backwards,then you'll tear it up,take your time and it's easy,you wont have a probelem,standerd are easy,i re did my automatic turbo hydromatic,and WOW you talk about complicated gezz,there are so many parts it was un real,so take your time.Of course new clutch plates to.
Here's the procedure to remove the transmission.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090
That's most of the job. Then to replace the Clutch;
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090
And don't forget to buy yourself a clutch pilot tool.
http://www.autozone.com/partTypeId,00435
P.S. Click on the pictures to enlarge.How do you change the clutch on a 1990 Toyota Camry?
Try getting the Haynes or other manuals at an automotive hardware store. They're a great help when maintaining your own car.
Drop the tranny.
Get a new throw out berring.
Anew pressure plate.
you have to dismantle the tranny,be carefull when inserting the new throw out berring,or you'll destroy the clutches,cause it has to go in correct,if it's backwards,then you'll tear it up,take your time and it's easy,you wont have a probelem,standerd are easy,i re did my automatic turbo hydromatic,and WOW you talk about complicated gezz,there are so many parts it was un real,so take your time.Of course new clutch plates to.
Torex screws on a clutch for harley 98 sportster?
okay i've been trying to remove four torex screws from my cover to change the clutch cable out and for the life of me they will not budge. i've even twisted the head on my torex wrench and nothing happens. any ideas on how to remove these?Torex screws on a clutch for harley 98 sportster?
Use an impact hammer, a hand held ratcheted punch that takes torx bits,twist the head to the left and hit with a mallet or hammer. %26lt;$20, probably borrow 1 from your local auto parts store like O'Reilly's,Torex screws on a clutch for harley 98 sportster?
If you have an impact driver i would suggest getting a snap-on torx bit and using it with the impact driver. This should loosen them up a bit. Also, if they wont budge after that maybe try putting some penetrating oil on them an letting it sit for like 15 minutes and try it again.
I forgot the size of the torx screw but go to your local parts store and buy a 1/4 drive torx. The same torx will work on the primaries also, make sure to clean the treads on everything with brakes parts cleaner and put a drop of lock tite on the treads.
You need a small flat ended punch that will fit inside the torx head, and a hammer. Set the tip of the punch into the bolt head and back it off slightly, leaving a silght gap and SMACK it with the hammer. You want the punch to impact the bolt....hammer-to-punch SMACK, punch-to-bolt SMACK. Do this 3 or 4 times. This is called ';shocking the bolt';. Then try the torx bit (T-27)and ratchet to remove the bolt.
If this doesn't work, you will need to chisel it off. With a small SHARP chisel and hammer, cut a groove into a side of the bolt head, then angle the chisel into the slot and firmly tap rapidly with the hammer clounter-clock wise until it breaks free.
This why you should always use Never-Sieze on these bolts, on the threads, and under the bolt head....same applies to the primary chain inspection cover screws, these are tapered, counter sunk bolts that sieze constantly.
Use an impact hammer, a hand held ratcheted punch that takes torx bits,twist the head to the left and hit with a mallet or hammer. %26lt;$20, probably borrow 1 from your local auto parts store like O'Reilly's,Torex screws on a clutch for harley 98 sportster?
If you have an impact driver i would suggest getting a snap-on torx bit and using it with the impact driver. This should loosen them up a bit. Also, if they wont budge after that maybe try putting some penetrating oil on them an letting it sit for like 15 minutes and try it again.
I forgot the size of the torx screw but go to your local parts store and buy a 1/4 drive torx. The same torx will work on the primaries also, make sure to clean the treads on everything with brakes parts cleaner and put a drop of lock tite on the treads.
You need a small flat ended punch that will fit inside the torx head, and a hammer. Set the tip of the punch into the bolt head and back it off slightly, leaving a silght gap and SMACK it with the hammer. You want the punch to impact the bolt....hammer-to-punch SMACK, punch-to-bolt SMACK. Do this 3 or 4 times. This is called ';shocking the bolt';. Then try the torx bit (T-27)and ratchet to remove the bolt.
If this doesn't work, you will need to chisel it off. With a small SHARP chisel and hammer, cut a groove into a side of the bolt head, then angle the chisel into the slot and firmly tap rapidly with the hammer clounter-clock wise until it breaks free.
This why you should always use Never-Sieze on these bolts, on the threads, and under the bolt head....same applies to the primary chain inspection cover screws, these are tapered, counter sunk bolts that sieze constantly.
What are some techniques/tips for driving to lower harm to the clutch?
I have a hydraulic clutch and I was wondering if anyone could give tips for starts/shifts/driving in general on how to save the clutch. I have a slight concern for the future of changing my clutch, as it is expensive and I would like to prolong it as long as possible.
I drive a 2001 VW GTI, with 57k miles.What are some techniques/tips for driving to lower harm to the clutch?
Learning to Rev-match will save lots of wear on your clutch. The majority of wear on a clutch disc is from the disc having to make up the difference between engine speed and transmission input shaft speed.
Using my 1987 Mazda RX-7 as an example, here's how you rev-match. Let's say I'm cruising along in 3rd gear at 2000rpm (around 30mph) and I want to shift down to 2nd. First, step on the clutch and pull it out of 3rd. With the clutch still in, rev to 3000 as you slot the shifter to 2nd. Then release the clutch and accelerate.
How high you need to rev depends on your transmission's gear ratios. It'll take some practice to get it right, but it'll be seamless when you do. To get an idea of what you need to rev to, I'd suggest taking your car out on an empty stretch of road and keeping it at 2000rpm in 4th gear, then downshifting to 3rd gear and maintaining the same actual speed. You'll find out exactly what the difference is then (mine is 50%, or 1000rpm in this case). In my car, 4th gear at 2000rpm is the same speed as 3rd gear at 3000rpm. 4th gear at 3000rpm would be 3rd at 4500rpm and so on. Your car might be geared differently, so you should take a notebook with you and write down the rpm differences between gears. And most of all, keep your starting speed consistent. I used 2000rpm and found my car has a 50% difference between gears (it goes up to 3000rpm on downshift)
Once you got that down, you might try giving heel-and-toe a try. Basically, you are rev-matching on a downshift while braking.
Step on the clutch
Step on brakes,
Downshift and rev-match using the heel of your right foot, while braking with your toe
Release all 3 pedals and accelerateWhat are some techniques/tips for driving to lower harm to the clutch?
DON'T use the clutch to brake. Don't downshift when you are stopping, just shift into neutral and brake normally. Brakepads are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch.
If you're willing to slightly reduce the life of your transmission, you can shift without using the clutch at all. There are shift-points where the gears match up naturally. Once you find them, you can just quickly jump up gears without the clutch. Having a tachometer really helps to find your shift points.
thats a good question. usually clutchs last for a long time ( say every 50k or so ) but it also depends on how you drive.
when starting, usually you will have the car in 1st or second gear when parked, so when you start it, you can just push the clutch to start it. if you were to shift to neutral before starting the car, the clutch wont engage, and therefore adding a slight amount of life too it.
also, upshifting, you have to shift as smooth as possible, when the engine rpm, and trans rpm are about the same. don't give it too much gas when up shifting.
the same applied to down shifting. do it as smooth as possible.
when stopping at a red light, the less you have the clutch pressed in while in gear the better, so shift to neutral if you are going to be at a light for sometime. even when the clutch is pressed in, there is a slight friction going on, not much, but in the long run, it makes a difference.
Michael Hunt has the idea to not use your clutch, and it is a good idea. You don't need to look at your rpm gage, it can get you into trouble. Just listen to your engine, it will tell you when to change gears with out the clutch. Most of the time you will start in 1st gear, just go fast enough to get your car rowling. At this time you will use the clutch, now with out the clutch pull it out of 1st and go to 2nd. Don't do it fast just do it easy, now give it gas till to YOU it sounds like time to change to 3rd, pull it out of 2nd - no clutch and go to 3rd. Now if you can't get it out of 2nd slow it down a little, then see if you can pull it out of gear. Now to gear down, don't use your clutch. If in your highest gear, just slow down some pull it out of that gear, to go to your next highest gear, run your rpm up till it falls into that gear. Because as you run your rpm up and trying to push it into gear, (not hard) just hard enough to go into gear, if your rpm is high enough it will just fall into gear. You will learn in time, just keep trying.email web hosting hair bands
I drive a 2001 VW GTI, with 57k miles.What are some techniques/tips for driving to lower harm to the clutch?
Learning to Rev-match will save lots of wear on your clutch. The majority of wear on a clutch disc is from the disc having to make up the difference between engine speed and transmission input shaft speed.
Using my 1987 Mazda RX-7 as an example, here's how you rev-match. Let's say I'm cruising along in 3rd gear at 2000rpm (around 30mph) and I want to shift down to 2nd. First, step on the clutch and pull it out of 3rd. With the clutch still in, rev to 3000 as you slot the shifter to 2nd. Then release the clutch and accelerate.
How high you need to rev depends on your transmission's gear ratios. It'll take some practice to get it right, but it'll be seamless when you do. To get an idea of what you need to rev to, I'd suggest taking your car out on an empty stretch of road and keeping it at 2000rpm in 4th gear, then downshifting to 3rd gear and maintaining the same actual speed. You'll find out exactly what the difference is then (mine is 50%, or 1000rpm in this case). In my car, 4th gear at 2000rpm is the same speed as 3rd gear at 3000rpm. 4th gear at 3000rpm would be 3rd at 4500rpm and so on. Your car might be geared differently, so you should take a notebook with you and write down the rpm differences between gears. And most of all, keep your starting speed consistent. I used 2000rpm and found my car has a 50% difference between gears (it goes up to 3000rpm on downshift)
Once you got that down, you might try giving heel-and-toe a try. Basically, you are rev-matching on a downshift while braking.
Step on the clutch
Step on brakes,
Downshift and rev-match using the heel of your right foot, while braking with your toe
Release all 3 pedals and accelerateWhat are some techniques/tips for driving to lower harm to the clutch?
DON'T use the clutch to brake. Don't downshift when you are stopping, just shift into neutral and brake normally. Brakepads are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch.
If you're willing to slightly reduce the life of your transmission, you can shift without using the clutch at all. There are shift-points where the gears match up naturally. Once you find them, you can just quickly jump up gears without the clutch. Having a tachometer really helps to find your shift points.
thats a good question. usually clutchs last for a long time ( say every 50k or so ) but it also depends on how you drive.
when starting, usually you will have the car in 1st or second gear when parked, so when you start it, you can just push the clutch to start it. if you were to shift to neutral before starting the car, the clutch wont engage, and therefore adding a slight amount of life too it.
also, upshifting, you have to shift as smooth as possible, when the engine rpm, and trans rpm are about the same. don't give it too much gas when up shifting.
the same applied to down shifting. do it as smooth as possible.
when stopping at a red light, the less you have the clutch pressed in while in gear the better, so shift to neutral if you are going to be at a light for sometime. even when the clutch is pressed in, there is a slight friction going on, not much, but in the long run, it makes a difference.
Michael Hunt has the idea to not use your clutch, and it is a good idea. You don't need to look at your rpm gage, it can get you into trouble. Just listen to your engine, it will tell you when to change gears with out the clutch. Most of the time you will start in 1st gear, just go fast enough to get your car rowling. At this time you will use the clutch, now with out the clutch pull it out of 1st and go to 2nd. Don't do it fast just do it easy, now give it gas till to YOU it sounds like time to change to 3rd, pull it out of 2nd - no clutch and go to 3rd. Now if you can't get it out of 2nd slow it down a little, then see if you can pull it out of gear. Now to gear down, don't use your clutch. If in your highest gear, just slow down some pull it out of that gear, to go to your next highest gear, run your rpm up till it falls into that gear. Because as you run your rpm up and trying to push it into gear, (not hard) just hard enough to go into gear, if your rpm is high enough it will just fall into gear. You will learn in time, just keep trying.
How long to change a clutch in a 95 camaro Z28?
I have to put a new clutch in my 95 camaro Z28 LT1 with a 6 speed manual . My rear seal is leaking bad so it leaked oil all over the clutch and now it slips like crazy. So I bought a new rear main seal and a new clutch kit. I am a pretty skilled mechanic I'm just curiouse if any one has ever done one and what I am up against. How long does anybody know will it take to do this job?How long to change a clutch in a 95 camaro Z28?
It's all common sense. Driveshaft, exhaust, crossmember, starter, trans, pressure plate, flywheel...in that order. You'll have to take the flywheel somewhere to get it resurfaced, but it shouldn't cost an arm and a leg. I'm not sure about your seal...I own a fox chassis Mustang, not a Chevy...I don't see how it could be much different though. Installation is reverse of removal. Don't forget trans fluid. Do yourself a favor...Go real easy on the new clutch for the first 500 or so miles. A well broken-in clutch grabs MUCH better than one that wasn't treated well. To answer your question: With the car on jackstands I'd say maybe one Saturday if you don't run into any major snags. Last thing...Tag ang bag your bolts and pay attention to the way **** came apart.How long to change a clutch in a 95 camaro Z28?
it takes like 2 hours, youll be fine
Depends on shop, tools, and experience. Usually a good mechanic can do this in about 3-4 hours.
It's all common sense. Driveshaft, exhaust, crossmember, starter, trans, pressure plate, flywheel...in that order. You'll have to take the flywheel somewhere to get it resurfaced, but it shouldn't cost an arm and a leg. I'm not sure about your seal...I own a fox chassis Mustang, not a Chevy...I don't see how it could be much different though. Installation is reverse of removal. Don't forget trans fluid. Do yourself a favor...Go real easy on the new clutch for the first 500 or so miles. A well broken-in clutch grabs MUCH better than one that wasn't treated well. To answer your question: With the car on jackstands I'd say maybe one Saturday if you don't run into any major snags. Last thing...Tag ang bag your bolts and pay attention to the way **** came apart.How long to change a clutch in a 95 camaro Z28?
it takes like 2 hours, youll be fine
Depends on shop, tools, and experience. Usually a good mechanic can do this in about 3-4 hours.
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