I am trying to change out the clutch in this vehicle and I can't figure out how to use this tool.
JohnHow do you use a hydrolic clutch removal tool for an 89 Ford Ranger?
Sorry never heard of a clutch removal tool.
Are you talking about changing the transmission clutch?
Remove the slave cylinder.
Remove the transmission.
Unbolt the pressure plate. Take off the pressure plate and clutch disk.
Remove the throwout bearing on the transmission shaft.
Place new throwout bearing on tranny shaft, making sure it's line up properly and engaged with the clutch fork.
Start the screws on the new pressure plate into the flywheel with the new clutch disk sandwiched between them.
Use a line up tool to line up the hole through the pressure plate, clutch disk and into the flywheel.
Try to put the tranny back in without knocking everything you just lined up out of place. If you do move the tranny back out of the way again, cuss it some more, then reallign everything again.
Get the tranny in place and bolt it up.
Reinstall the slave cylinder.
Monday, December 12, 2011
What can I do to give my car some extra power yet not fear the engine blowing up at the track?
I have a 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo and would like to run decent times in the 1/4 and 1/8. What can I do to possibly get to 10-12 seconds but NOT turn it into an all out dragster or have to be changing clutches and engines once a year?
Simply put I want speed and a car that can compete but I don't want the car breaking down on me for a new reason every 2 weeks. Alot of guys I know love showing off garage projects that are fast as hell but cost a few hundred a month in parts and almost always a few tows a year.
Here are some stats
114k miles
Fairly new Clutch (2 years old, less than 5,000 miles)
to untrained eye engine seems to run like new
Turbo seems to run fine
New Exhaust (less than 100 miles)
New Rear tires
Suspension seems fine
Electric seems perfect after buying new high end battery and alternator.
Also, I'm not the most educated person when it comes to cars nor have I ever gotten a car past 120mph for more than a few minutes so if unreliable race cars are simply an ugly reality please be honest and tell me, I'll deal with it. What I don't want is to be half a state away and having my engine blow after running the 1/4 2 or 3 times.
Will it cost me much if I learn to do much of this work on my own? I've done little work on this car myself and I'm always surprised how easy it can be with the right instructions.What can I do to give my car some extra power yet not fear the engine blowing up at the track?
If reliability is a concern, I strongly advise against upgrading your car. Running a stock, commercial vehicle at such high speeds constantly does a number on your engine and transmission.
If you just want a little extra HP, I'd suggest a chip upgrade first, then maybe upgrade your turbocharger.
Simply put I want speed and a car that can compete but I don't want the car breaking down on me for a new reason every 2 weeks. Alot of guys I know love showing off garage projects that are fast as hell but cost a few hundred a month in parts and almost always a few tows a year.
Here are some stats
114k miles
Fairly new Clutch (2 years old, less than 5,000 miles)
to untrained eye engine seems to run like new
Turbo seems to run fine
New Exhaust (less than 100 miles)
New Rear tires
Suspension seems fine
Electric seems perfect after buying new high end battery and alternator.
Also, I'm not the most educated person when it comes to cars nor have I ever gotten a car past 120mph for more than a few minutes so if unreliable race cars are simply an ugly reality please be honest and tell me, I'll deal with it. What I don't want is to be half a state away and having my engine blow after running the 1/4 2 or 3 times.
Will it cost me much if I learn to do much of this work on my own? I've done little work on this car myself and I'm always surprised how easy it can be with the right instructions.What can I do to give my car some extra power yet not fear the engine blowing up at the track?
If reliability is a concern, I strongly advise against upgrading your car. Running a stock, commercial vehicle at such high speeds constantly does a number on your engine and transmission.
If you just want a little extra HP, I'd suggest a chip upgrade first, then maybe upgrade your turbocharger.
What are the benefits of switching from your standard oil pump to a high performance one.?
Soon I will be changing my clutch kit on my 75 chev. nova. A good time to make this change, however I would like to know if it would be worth the expense. How would my car benefit from such a change. If so, can you recommend a good one for a 75 chev. nova. 250 eng. 4.1. Thanks very much.What are the benefits of switching from your standard oil pump to a high performance one.?
Generally that would be good if you had a high performance engine pushing quite a bit of HP. Since your Nova only has the 6cyl (im not putting it down or anything) it probably wouldnt really be worth the added expense.What are the benefits of switching from your standard oil pump to a high performance one.?
I'm not sure what you are trying to do. Are you trying to soup up your car, a four banger? If I'm not mistaken you have a mechanical oil pump and a mechanical fuel pump. I can't see any benefit in replacing the oil pump unless something is wrong with the present one.
You will gain 50 hp. and 13mpg. with this change. double that if you use slick 50
Generally that would be good if you had a high performance engine pushing quite a bit of HP. Since your Nova only has the 6cyl (im not putting it down or anything) it probably wouldnt really be worth the added expense.What are the benefits of switching from your standard oil pump to a high performance one.?
I'm not sure what you are trying to do. Are you trying to soup up your car, a four banger? If I'm not mistaken you have a mechanical oil pump and a mechanical fuel pump. I can't see any benefit in replacing the oil pump unless something is wrong with the present one.
You will gain 50 hp. and 13mpg. with this change. double that if you use slick 50
How much it would cost to change my car clutch hounda civic 1.6?
Depends on which model %26amp; year
but the average time is 5 hours
+ the parts used
clutch assembly
gearbox oil etcHow much it would cost to change my car clutch hounda civic 1.6?
eh just a regular clutch few hundred. performance, well pay up homie lolHow much it would cost to change my car clutch hounda civic 1.6?
Shop around and ask friends who they use. You don't need a main dealer. Some garages specialise. Prices can vary between garages by a huge amount. Get quotes.
i saw a advertisement In a local garage CLUTCH replacement from a 拢100
If it is slipping: (note: it may require an adjustment only - 20) 100 - 200 for a backyarder, 250 - 350 for a mechanic, 400 - 500 for genuine. If it has blown (bang), add another b100, m250, g500.
I just had one done on an Almera GTi, cost 拢210. Mr Clutch.dynamic duos for teenage girls artificial toe nails
but the average time is 5 hours
+ the parts used
clutch assembly
gearbox oil etcHow much it would cost to change my car clutch hounda civic 1.6?
eh just a regular clutch few hundred. performance, well pay up homie lolHow much it would cost to change my car clutch hounda civic 1.6?
Shop around and ask friends who they use. You don't need a main dealer. Some garages specialise. Prices can vary between garages by a huge amount. Get quotes.
i saw a advertisement In a local garage CLUTCH replacement from a 拢100
If it is slipping: (note: it may require an adjustment only - 20) 100 - 200 for a backyarder, 250 - 350 for a mechanic, 400 - 500 for genuine. If it has blown (bang), add another b100, m250, g500.
I just had one done on an Almera GTi, cost 拢210. Mr Clutch.
How to change a a/c clutch pulley in 87 olds?
What is the diffuclty level, and cost of replacing a/c clutch pulley? Do you have to replace that elecrical device also?How to change a a/c clutch pulley in 87 olds?
Is it the clutch that is bad or the pulley? If it is the clutch, on a vehicle that old i would recommend putting your money into a reman compressor.How to change a a/c clutch pulley in 87 olds?
job is doneput a different belt on,haven'y got around to replace pulley
There is a ceramic seal that can easily be damaged. I suggest you call around for a price quote - AC work is generally not for do-it-yourselfers.
you need to let a shop do this one,on a scale of 1-10 this one rates about an 8 ,its not as real easy job to do,id have this one done,it would be a lot better,the part isn't that expensive but if you mess it up you,ll wind up needing another compressor for it,good luck.
Is it the clutch that is bad or the pulley? If it is the clutch, on a vehicle that old i would recommend putting your money into a reman compressor.How to change a a/c clutch pulley in 87 olds?
job is doneput a different belt on,haven'y got around to replace pulley
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There is a ceramic seal that can easily be damaged. I suggest you call around for a price quote - AC work is generally not for do-it-yourselfers.
you need to let a shop do this one,on a scale of 1-10 this one rates about an 8 ,its not as real easy job to do,id have this one done,it would be a lot better,the part isn't that expensive but if you mess it up you,ll wind up needing another compressor for it,good luck.
Car Clutch Question? Audi A4, 1999.?
I live in San Francisco and I have a 1999 Audi A4, manual transmission. The car is in excellent condition or it was until what happened this Friday. I was climbing up a series of hills and I rode the clutch for a little bit. I was in 1st gear and only went as far as the 2nd gear and never really let go of the clutch. What ended up happening is that the clutch over heated and smoke started coming out of the engine. The car started failing, luckily I had made it to the top of the final hill. Now what is happening is that whenever I start driving, the car is slow to get into 1st gear, the clutch does not seem to hold the 1st gear very well. The car itself has 80,000 miles on it and everything works perfectly besides this little issue. So my question is this:
a. What should I do?
b. If you have had this experience with an Audi where you had to have the Clutch changed, how much did it cost you?Car Clutch Question? Audi A4, 1999.?
I had the same thing happen to me, but i was stuck in traffic.
Your Clutch is toast, and you probably glazed your flywheel.
You need a new clutch and your flywheel resurfaced.
If go you to the dealer expect to fork over 1k+.
You could prob. get it done elsewhere for 700-800.
Good Luck
Oh and this is for Quattro, 2wd will be little cheaper.
Or, buy a Sachs clutch kit for $270 and do the work yourself. goodluck.Car Clutch Question? Audi A4, 1999.?
I would have the clutch replaced asap...
I dont know about that particular model, but i have done my own on my cars. By the sounds of it you dont sound like you have any experience to do it yourself so I would find a reputable import repair shop, or take it to the audi Dealer.
well the clutch has no grip/friction plates to grab onto the flywheel to get the power and torque to wheels(assuming u have the AWD A4) now since it is an audi, ur gonna be paying quite a lot for a clutch, and most likely a flywheel as well if thats got some nice burnt marks or scratches on it. basically because u have an audi, ur gonna be paying a lot for the brand of the car, bmws and benzes alike. if u want i can help u find a nice clutch and flywheel if u want me too, i know some sites that provide for ur car
try tapping on the clutch a bit, if it doesnt work it means that your clutch was forced to much or it was uder pressure too much basically your clutch is toast, but it will cost you tons of money to repair
You have glazed the clutch linings -- burned the surface -- and the clutch friction plate is old %26lt;thin%26gt; so it doesn't push as hard against the pressure plate. NEW CLUTCH !!
a. What should I do?
b. If you have had this experience with an Audi where you had to have the Clutch changed, how much did it cost you?Car Clutch Question? Audi A4, 1999.?
I had the same thing happen to me, but i was stuck in traffic.
Your Clutch is toast, and you probably glazed your flywheel.
You need a new clutch and your flywheel resurfaced.
If go you to the dealer expect to fork over 1k+.
You could prob. get it done elsewhere for 700-800.
Good Luck
Oh and this is for Quattro, 2wd will be little cheaper.
Or, buy a Sachs clutch kit for $270 and do the work yourself. goodluck.Car Clutch Question? Audi A4, 1999.?
I would have the clutch replaced asap...
I dont know about that particular model, but i have done my own on my cars. By the sounds of it you dont sound like you have any experience to do it yourself so I would find a reputable import repair shop, or take it to the audi Dealer.
well the clutch has no grip/friction plates to grab onto the flywheel to get the power and torque to wheels(assuming u have the AWD A4) now since it is an audi, ur gonna be paying quite a lot for a clutch, and most likely a flywheel as well if thats got some nice burnt marks or scratches on it. basically because u have an audi, ur gonna be paying a lot for the brand of the car, bmws and benzes alike. if u want i can help u find a nice clutch and flywheel if u want me too, i know some sites that provide for ur car
try tapping on the clutch a bit, if it doesnt work it means that your clutch was forced to much or it was uder pressure too much basically your clutch is toast, but it will cost you tons of money to repair
You have glazed the clutch linings -- burned the surface -- and the clutch friction plate is old %26lt;thin%26gt; so it doesn't push as hard against the pressure plate. NEW CLUTCH !!
How do i know my clutch has been correctly replaced by my mechanic?
recently i had my clutch replace i.e. pressure plate, centre plate and the slave cylinder.
i took it to the mechanic and he fixed it as there was a noise coming from the engine when the clutch isnt depressed.
when i put my foot on the clutch and pushed it all the way done, the noise went away.
this is why i decided to get the clutch changed as ive looked online and all the answers to my questions about the noise were to get the clutch replaced.
The clutch was high when i put it in the garage.
after i went to the garage, when i drove out the clutch was Little further down which i thought was normal.
after one day the clutch (bitting point) went to the same height as normal and now the noise is back.
the noise isnt loud but i can hear the difference when i push the clutch down and leave the clutch up.
did the mechanic do the job right? as i think he messed it up somehow.
any advice would be great thank you.How do i know my clutch has been correctly replaced by my mechanic?
Did he replace the ';throw-out'; bearing? I would have thought that's what you paid him to replace and since he had to take the transmission out, he replaced the clutch main components as well. Have another mechanic you trust give his opinion of the noise.How do i know my clutch has been correctly replaced by my mechanic?
What kind of car is it and what year? The sound going away when you push the clutch in tells me that it was not the clutch that is making the noise. I've got a 72 Volkswagen Beetle and I have the exact same problem you have and I know for a fact that it is a bearing in the transmission making the noise. I know this because I was a VW mechanic for 13 years and have seen this problem before. But who knows. It could be something else.
Three areas regularly skipped during clutch replacement are the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, clutch fork and throwout bearing. If the flywheel was scored it should have been re-surfaced.
Read your bill and see if these parts were replaced.
One source of a noise that goes away when the clutch is released is a bad input shaft bearing in the transmission.
When you push the clutch pedal, the shaft stops rotating and the noise goes away.
Did you have a mechanic diagnose the problem, or just tell him to replace the clutch?
i took it to the mechanic and he fixed it as there was a noise coming from the engine when the clutch isnt depressed.
when i put my foot on the clutch and pushed it all the way done, the noise went away.
this is why i decided to get the clutch changed as ive looked online and all the answers to my questions about the noise were to get the clutch replaced.
The clutch was high when i put it in the garage.
after i went to the garage, when i drove out the clutch was Little further down which i thought was normal.
after one day the clutch (bitting point) went to the same height as normal and now the noise is back.
the noise isnt loud but i can hear the difference when i push the clutch down and leave the clutch up.
did the mechanic do the job right? as i think he messed it up somehow.
any advice would be great thank you.How do i know my clutch has been correctly replaced by my mechanic?
Did he replace the ';throw-out'; bearing? I would have thought that's what you paid him to replace and since he had to take the transmission out, he replaced the clutch main components as well. Have another mechanic you trust give his opinion of the noise.How do i know my clutch has been correctly replaced by my mechanic?
What kind of car is it and what year? The sound going away when you push the clutch in tells me that it was not the clutch that is making the noise. I've got a 72 Volkswagen Beetle and I have the exact same problem you have and I know for a fact that it is a bearing in the transmission making the noise. I know this because I was a VW mechanic for 13 years and have seen this problem before. But who knows. It could be something else.
Three areas regularly skipped during clutch replacement are the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, clutch fork and throwout bearing. If the flywheel was scored it should have been re-surfaced.
Read your bill and see if these parts were replaced.
One source of a noise that goes away when the clutch is released is a bad input shaft bearing in the transmission.
When you push the clutch pedal, the shaft stops rotating and the noise goes away.
Did you have a mechanic diagnose the problem, or just tell him to replace the clutch?
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